Friday, October 1, 2010

maybe OOP, but not really


I am working with sourdough.

As a German, naturally, I love Bread. I am rather good an baking simply yeast/wheat based breads but what I really miss over here is rye
and rye/wheat bread (so called grey bread). And for rye one needs sourdough.
For those of you who are capable of reading German there is a terrific site on Sourdough here:http://www.der-sauerteig.comStarting a fresh sourdough is fairly easy, if you get lucky. Basically you take about a handfull of flour. Wheat or rye or even a glutenfree flour like rice flour or teff, all is possible. Then, you add as much tepid water as you need to make an almost runny dough like for thin pancakes (see picture). You place this in a clean bowl, best is stainless steel or glass, cover it with a clean (maybe even ironed) piece of cloth and place it somewhere warm. Not overly hot; around 79 F (26 C) and stable. And then? You do nothing. For about 24 hours.
You do not need to add yeast. The yeast will develop by itself. And if you add baking yeast at teh beginning, chances are that it will overpower the other organisms and take over the starter dough. Which is why the recipes calling for adding yeast always suggest that you throw out the sourdough after a couple of weeks at the latest while the sourdough community in Germany pampers the lovely doughs for YEARS. (you can dry the finished product and then it can be used like instant yeast)This no-yeast-starter is, how they will have made their bread 'well leavened' as Anthimus put it. There are
some lovely legends on how sourdough was 'invented' by an egyptian slave girl'. The technology was definitely around even if the particulars of this legend sound more fanciful than reality based. Sourdough was definitely around in ancient Egypt.

After about a day, you add another handfull of flour and add as much water as you need to get the almost runny consistency again. do this for about 4 to 5 days. during this time, make sure of the following:
(a) leave the *starting dough* alone when you are not feeding it. The stuff that is developing is a multitude of organisms some feed aerob and others anaerob so, when you add the flour mixx the solids and the liquids well, but: hands off inbetween.
(b) try to keep the sides of your bowl clean (my first try ended when I stopped fungus on the sides of the bowl, i had been sick and hadn't wanted to handle the starter while I was sneezing and after ignoring it for three days I saw this and had to throw it out. I had used nice handthrown and ornamentally glazed pottery.The second try I did wit[Image]h pyrex glass and that worked wonderfully.
(c) when it starts to smell vinegary (maybe even agressively so) be happy, you are doing it right.
(d) when the starter starts bubbling, be happy you are doing it right
(e) when the solids seperate from the liquid, don't fret, leave it alone until feeding time then mix it in well
After about 5 days of feeding you 'young' sourdough can be used.

I am at that stage now. This evening I started the actual bread dough. The rye part is done with sourdough and accounts for about 2/3s of the overall dough and the wheat part with normal baking yeast (even if it is a very tiny amount). This particular bread is a modern Paderborner Landbrot so that is ok, if you make a rye bread you need more sourdough than with wheat. The wheat only needs the yeasts which are part of the sourdough, though the other organisms help to stave off staleness in the finished bread.
More later

Sunday, September 5, 2010

Whisky Muffins


(This dish has NOTHING to do with medieval cooking, but I am sure the local cooking guild or brewer's assembly won't scorn on getting these when discussing the next super-documented feast.)

Source
Once upon a time I promised my GöGA aka Hubby to bake some of my fabulous muffins for the office. But, alas, I didn't have enough blueberries for a big batch and I couldn't get more either, due to some f#+ü# up at our supermarket. But I had whisky, ground hazelnuts and Kouvertüre (a prepped form of tempered chocolate you get anywhere in Germany.
My mother's signature receipe is a Whisky wreath.I fused the recipes and the result is brilliant. I have tried and reverseengineered the recipe. But remember there was a lot of *ah this is the consistency the dough needs*-kinda feeling involved, so trust your own experience more than my numbers I am no good with them anyways


Elisande's Whisky muffins
(serves 24 according to regular measurements but more for us, since we like them a bit smaller)
Ingredients:

1 cup (250g)
soft butter (NEVER subsitute with margarine in Muffins. That is the way bricks lie)
1 3/4 cups (450g)
sugar
4
Eggs
2 cups ( 500g)
regular white baking flour (best results in the US mix all purpose with pastry 2 parts to 1)
4 teaspoons
Baking soda
1/2 cup (125ml)
MiIk
1/4 cup
whisky (plus lots more later) (don't buy anything fancy, We need the Zang more than the
more subtle flavors and by all means DO not raid your husband's single malt cabinet for
this.)
1/4 cup
orange juice
4 TableS of
cocoa powder
a bit less than 1/2 cup(100 g) hazelnuts, ground (why are they so difficult to get in the US?)
200g
good chocolate, hacked

for the *icing*
powdered sugar
as much whisky as you like (or can spare, ;))
dark couverture: Chocolate to melt and spread over the muffins in the USA getting Kuvertüre is difficult at best AND expensive (sad, but there it is) don't do a Ganache, it will make eating the muffins a mess and alsonot provide the crunch the covering should have. Instead, try tempering chocolate here
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDcF7nJbF04 is a tutorial about how to do that. It will make this whole thing a bit more cumbersome, but the flavor is nicer, plus once you know how to do this the possiblities are endless.

Instructions:
preheat oven to about 190 Celcius/ 375 Fahrenheit

Mix soft butter and sugar throroughly (seriously, do this, instead of just mixing everything in the bowl. The texture is much better this way).Crack in the eggs one by one, slowly mix in baking soda and flour. Then, add the liquid parts and the rest of the ingredients. Don't overmix. The dough should reluctantly leave the spoon on its own; not tearing too easily but still on the soft side. Not runny, mind you. The German term is: "schwer reißend vom Löffel fallen". If you ever made fluffy, yummy muffins/cupcakes you know the right consistency. Fill into paper cups and a muffin form.

bake for about 25 - 35 minutes don't worry if they come out a bit *crispy* on the top, but don't overcook them

Take the stuff out. Now the fun begins:

Pinch some holes in the *did I say the surface tends towards the hard at this point?*-surface of the individual muffins and mix whisky and powdered sugar to a sort of whisky syrup, a very light syrup. It is ok if some white clumps remain. Drizzle the whisky syrup over the muffins: PREPARE for spillage here, work slowly. it is better to do it in several goes. Allow the muffins to absorbe as much of the liquid as you deem right (I allow for about a full tablespoon) .
Set aside and prepare the covering:
Either you just heat the Kouvertüre because you have somebody send it to you from Germany or have a German supermarket which carries it or you do the tempered chocolate (let me repeat: a good tutorial is this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDcF7nJbF04 )

Cover the muffins with the chocolate, generously, and let cool. On the picture there is NOT nearly enough chocolate on the muffins. You want to make sure you get enough of the chocolate couverture to seal the surface for a number of reasons
(a) if the muffins are fully covered the chocolate give a nice crisp KNACK! when you bite into it and that is a pleasant thing
(b) chocolate is good and this is dark chocolate
(c) any hardened spillage is bound to be mixed with the whiskey also tastes good (and you get to keep this all for yourself and have a good reason not to share with any halflings)
(d) the muffins keep better, because they cannot dry out. Seriously, if you do this you can prep the muffins a couple of days ahead and they will still taste fresh.

Another thing to remember: if you bake only half and freeze the rest IN the papercups, you can have fresm muffins out of the oven in no time

Frankish Stew


Source: Anthimus' de obseruatione ciborum is a dietetics manual written for the Frankish king Theuderic in the early 6th century CE . Text and translation after: Anthimus; de obseruatione ciborum. On the Observance of Foods, translated and edited by Mark Grant, Prospect Books, Totnes 1996. No.3 de carnibus.

I won the main dish category of TRIAL BY FIRE XIV with this dish.

Redacted Recipe (sufficient for about 10 people)
Ingredients
3,5 lbs. of either a stewing beef, cut up pork roast, also chicken would work as would mushrooms for a vegetarian/lent version)
4 stalks of leeks (one more or less doesn't actually hurt all that much)
1 bulb of fennel
6 stalks of celery (or one bulb)
2-3 cups of sharp vinegar
2-3 cups of honey
water or broth
Olive oil
1 TS Salt
2 TS penny royal
1 TS spikenard root (! do not use the oil, it is WAY too potent)
2 TS costmary (or subsitute that with equal parts Caraway and spearmint)
50 Peppercorns
5 cloves
a dash of red wine

3,5 lbs should be quite enough for 10 people. In a feast as a course among many this amount would be enough to serve even more as the intense aroma will have people feel filled quicker, however, they may not be aware of that and that will impact how much they will take for themselves. If I was cooking a lunch for a group of ten (fighting) fighters on the other hand, I would probably add a lbs more. You can also make about half and serve it at a mundane setting with people going crazy over the unusal spicy flavour. There, you could serve it as a course over pearl barley or use some leftovers cold in these little cracker shells with a tiny bit of whipped cream and baby grapes as appetizers.

You can use regular stewing beef, which you can get rather cheap and it will yield a flavourful stew but there is a risk that the meat will dry ever so slightly and become somewhat hard which impacts the texture of the dish. So, next time, I will try to get the striploin cut for the meat, or try pork. This dish would also be delicious as a lent /vegetarian dish with portabella or another mushroom substituting for the meat.

Cut the beef (or whatever you choose, One of my friends keeps obsessing that this should be done with rabbit) into small cubes, for SCA purposes you may even want to go smaller than your usual stew meat, because this makes it easier to eat with a spoon and since we are merely closing the pores of the cubes, not actually searing them to create a roasting aroma.

Fry the cubes in olive oil until they started smelling of cooked meat and giving off liquid. Here, take care of the classics: dry (!) your cleaned meat, heat the pan REAL good. keep the metal hot, etc. DO YOUR MEAT IN BATCHES. Ihis amount of meat in a 12 " pan should take about three batches. Have a good big pot (or even an eartheware pot as Anthimus himself recommended) on stand by. You fry, then, add a good dash of water (maybe about 4 oz, a little more than for a mere deglazing) take out the meat before the water has evaporated, fill the excess water with the meat into the pot, make sure the pan is cleanish again so that you don't get any charcoal aroma into the next batch (;)) heat it back up, drizzle in the oliveoil for the next batch and fry the next batch, again, when it gives off the liquid, add the water. Do not be afraid to use too much water, this will become a stew after all. When all the meat is fried, heat up the meat in the pot and add a good tablespoon of salt.

Salt is not mentioned in the original recipe. But is was available, and Anthimus does not warn against it like he is warning against liquamen. The warning against liquamen however indicates that this was still rather commonly used in this period. It being very salty I would think that to be a good argument to use some salt as we know that salt is a flavor enhancer and that palates used to salt will find unsalted dishes rather bland. Also, it will help the meat to retain its juices during the stewing process if salt is already present in the stewing liquid. Frankly I haven't tried it without salt and it may well taste lovely that way (if anybody tries it saltless I would appreciate a comment with the results). Let the liquid come to a small simmer, then, fill up the pot with vinegar until the meat is well covered (about a cup or two). The recipe calls for a sharp vinegar and a little more than about half that volume in honey, together with chopped leeks (no need to overchop, but clean them well ;) chopped celery and finely ground (dried) pennyroyal, about 1 Tablespoon, and the chopped fennel. I only used the white flesh. You can use the arial, herby parts for flavouring but they will cook into oblivion for no good reason if you add them at this point.

After another five minutes of simmering I added cloves and pepper mixed and some chopped costmary with a dash of wine. You can crack the peppercorns cloves and costmary in a mortar but you don't have to, I just used my small food processor. If you don't have really great costmary (also called bible leaf or alecost) trust me you can subsitute it with equal parts caraway and spearmint. Chemically you will have about 80 the same aromatic component that way. And frankly, if you don't grow costmary or have some secret source it is a bitch to get for cooking. Then add about a tablespoon of spikenard root which is suprisingly easy to get www.mountainrose.com (be warned their website is WAY too tempting for the faint of heart) carries it as well as some other websites. Do not substitute this with Spikenard Oil without SIGNIFICANTLY diluting it. It will give you a very *weird* result.

I have cooked and served this dish with and without spikenard. The spikenard version was much better received but everybody agrees the difference is slight. A friend of mine has tried it with spikenardoil and has been warining against that ever since.


After this the dish has to stew. let it cook. let it be. check for liquid, make sure the meat ist covered. If the meat isdrying a little too much add water or broth (If you do the lent version you won’t have the drying issue as the mushroom will just get juicier and more flavorful and you will be done earlier as the mushrooms cook much quicker, however, from the position of flavor it may well be a good Idea to have some vegetable broth ready to use for keeping the mixture at the right consistency. In this version you also should be careful with the vinegar. and take half the spices at first you can always spike up the seasoning, reducing the acid in a dish without haveing a cucumber or potatoes ready, OTOH is very difficult)

Taste your stew after about 30 minutes. if the flavours are off, out of balance season it. if it is too sour add more honey, if it needs more flavor add some honey, if it tastes too bland add more vineagr AND and more honey (there is a balance to be struck between the vinegar and teh honey). you may want to add some more spikenard or costmary if you want more spicy or more minty add more pepper oif you want it hotter and ad more cloves if you feel like the flavors are still all over the place rather than blending.

Taste. Season. Give it time. Taste again. The endresult should be a fresh spicy hot stew which will give you an immediate intuitive understanding why this yummy dish was hidden in a health book at a time where doctors were operating on the four humors theory. this should be AWESOME with chicken and using freshly cooked chicken stock as liquid for highly congested people. It tastes lovely hot and even better also the next day cold.


Try it.

It is worth being rediscovered not just for the SCA.

YIS

Elisande